Riding the Jacobite Express: Glenfinnan viaduct, Mallaig and a wildlife surprise

Even before we’d booked a single night of our seven-day Scottish Highland tour, Jackie had already picked the highlight of her vacation: the scant ninety seconds it would take to cross the Glenfinnan Viaduct aboard the Jacobite steam train, also known as the Hogwarts Express.

As a long-time Harry Potter fan, Jackie agreed to this tour purely because it included this little Hollywood-esque treat. I, on the other hand, was looking forward to it simply because of nostalgia — remembering all the steam trains from my Scottish childhood.

Arrival in Fort William

Bussed from HollyTree Hotel by Jim, our trusty tour bus driver, and our guide Tony Hawkins, we arrived at the bustling Fort William train platform by mid-morning. The red coaches waited for us to board and the black steam engine warmed up for our imminent departure.

Back on the platform, we walked briskly to the front of the train like many others for a picture with the little engine. Then we hurried back to find our carriage with reserved seats for the tour group.  

Pro Tip: Best views are on the left side of the train heading toward Mallaig – that way you get to see the curve of the viaduct as you cross it. A classic view for pictures — but watch out for train officials that don’t want your camera sticking out the window.

I’ll admit I felt a little guilty hustling to get that left-side seat when I knew others would have to sit on the other side. But I learned that on the return journey everyone gets to change seats to the other side of the carriage so everyone gets a shot at seeing both sides of the journey. So, not so bad…

What is the Jacobite steam train?

The Jacobite is a heritage steam railway operated by West Coast Railways, running seasonally (May through October) between Fort William and Mallaig on the west coast of Scotland — a return journey of roughly 84 miles through some of the most dramatic scenery in the country.

There was some worry that the steam engine would not run due to a wildfire risk—it was a dry spring and several weeks earlier sparks from steam trains had ignited wildfires at trackside. At points along the route, you could see the blackened brush where fire had been rampant.

Fortunately for us, some rain fell on the days prior to our departure. So the steam engine was back at the front of the train, leading the procession and looking spectacular. But there was also a diesel locomotive at the rear, apparently doing the pushing.

We learned this from a young fellow who clearly knew his trains and joined the conversation. He and Carmen, a fellow tour groupie from California, rounded out our table of four. They talked trains, Scotland, and travel for most of the route while I took pictures and devoured my Empire biscuits.

Pro Tip: Book early — it’s not unheard of to book up to a year in advance. Tickets typically sell out early, especially for the summer months. We traveled early in the year to avoid the tourist crowds (and the midges) in late April-early May.

The approach to Glenfinnan

The Glenfinnan Viaduct was built between 1897 and 1901, spans 380 metres, and curves gracefully across the valley — which is exactly what makes it so photogenic. When the train crosses it, you can look back along the curve of the carriages behind you or the steam train ahead of you.

You’d think the approach to the Glenfinnan Viaduct was designed to build anticipation. You catch glimpses of the span through breaks in the trees, then lose sight of it as the train curves through rocky cuttings. Then you burst into the open and there it is: 21-arches of viaduct curving across the valley and the loch off in the distance.

Before leaving Fort William, the coach conductor gave strict instructions: nothing outside the windows. Hands, cameras, phones have to be inside. Trees come close to the track in places, and anything extending outside risks getting hit hard.

Outside on the hillside, however, we saw hundreds of fans, cameras ready, waving like we were royalty. It was Jackie’s favorite part of the ride—and I totally get it.

Pro tip: The Glenfinnan Viaduct viewpoint is managed by the National Trust for Scotland and is also accessible by road. If you want to be one of those people on the hillside watching the train cross, start early as it fills up quickly. It’s free to visit.

Our train rolled to a stop halfway across the viaduct to let people soak in the moment. And I may have snuck my camera out the upper window for a better photo while it was stopped). Even though I got a polite but firm look from the conductor, it was totally worth it.

You see the result at the top of this post: the camera looking forward toward the coaches and steam engine arcing along the inward curving bridge and the valley falling away below — just the shot I’d been looking for. It wasn’t the cliche postcard view that the people on the hillside had. But this one is mine, and it proves, to me at least, that I was there.

After the viaduct, we stopped briefly at Glenfinnan station. There’s a small railway museum and a restaurant built into a converted train carriage at the back of the platform. The stop was short — just enough time to walk through the museum before the whistle went.

Other guided tours that include the Jacobite steam train:

• Jacobite Steam Train & The Great Glen
• 4-day Isle of Skye and The Jacobite Steam Train
• 2-Day Jacobite Experience including the Hogwarts Express from Edinburgh
• From Edinburgh: Hogwarts Express and Scottish Highlands Tour
• From Inverness: Jacobite Steam Train and Highlands Tour

Arriving in Mallaig

Shortly after leaving Glenfinnon station we rolled into Mallaig, a small fishing port on the west coast, known for its role in the seafood trade and as a point for ferry connections to the Isle of Skye. It’s also the departure point for a number of wildlife cruises, especially around Loch Nevis.

Mallaig was the end of the first part of the journey and we had just an hour until it left for Fort William again. The main decision: lunch in town, or a wildlife cruise on the loch. Jackie and I had split decisions.

She and others in the tour group elected to go to the Tea Garden Cafe and subsequently raved about her baked potato with ham, salad, and the best lemon cake of the entire trip.

I (only one in our group) ran to book and catch that wildlife cruise out on the loch (of course…). It was wonderful and we spotted porpoises, barrel jellyfish drifting near the surface, and a small island covered in lazy, basking seals.

Best decision of the day.

If you stay in the town, Mallaig’s cafes and seafood spots are worth the time. It also has a small heritage centre and some good views back toward Skye on a clear day.

Click on these photos to see larger versions.

One critical detail: all of these activities are timed to coincide with the departure time of the train back to Fort William. But there’s not much time to spare, so don’t dilly-dally; I made it back with 10 minutes to spare. That was close enough.

The return journey

The return felt more relaxed. We’d seen the viaduct, explored Mallaig, eaten well — or in my case, watched seals — and could sit back and watch the landscape go past.

The West Highland scenery doesn’t get old and there was more shortbread to be bought on the train…

What we liked

• That sweeping curve over the Glenfinnan Viaduct.
• Being on the correct side of the train for the best view.
• All the excited fans waving at us from the hills.
• Lemon cake heaven (Jackie’s still talking about it)
• A real chance to see Scottish marine wildlife
• Scenic little harbour with just the right amount of bustle

What we didn’t like

• Not enough time in Mallaig to do both the cruise and still grab a bite to eat — but they DO offer snacks for sale on the train.

What you need to know before you book

Book early. A year ahead is not excessive for peak summer dates. Tickets sell out.

Seat side matters. Left side heading toward Mallaig for the viaduct view. Pay attention to the conductor’s briefing — and trust that the return journey handles the other side.

The steam engine question. Due to wildfire risk in dry conditions, the steam engine is sometimes used for appearance only, with diesel doing the actual work from the rear. The scenery is identical either way, but it’s worth knowing.

Camera protocol. Nothing outside the windows while moving. On the viaduct when the train stops, use your judgment.

Plan your Mallaig hour. Lunch or wildlife cruise — not both. Decide before you arrive. I think the wildlife boats are worth it if the timing works.

Getting to Fort William. Fort William sits at the southern end of the Great Glen, about 2.5 hours by road from both Edinburgh and Glasgow. It’s also accessible by train from Glasgow Queen Street — the West Highland Line itself is considered one of the world’s great rail journeys, so the ride in sets the mood nicely. If you’re driving, parking in Fort William can be tight on busy days, so plan to arrive early.

Have you ridden the Jacobite, or is it on your Scotland list? Leave a comment below — and if this was useful, save it for your trip planning.